Senin, 22 November 2010

Dining Chair






Specifications
1) Importing rubber wood frame
2) Exquisite handwork carving
3) Timber can be different according
1) Importing rubber wood frame
2) Exquisite handwork carving
3) Timber can be different according to customer's needs 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/51773806/Dining_Chair.html









          

Sykes Timber

We are Timber Merchants specialising in quality Hardwood and quality Softwood and have one of the most comprehensive ranges of hardwood and softwood stock in the country, including solid hardwood flooring and hardwood decking, all stored under cover at our 10 acre Atherstone site.

As long established quality hardwood merchants we import only the best hardwood grades from reputable mills, most of whom we have dealt with for many years. We have our own machining mill for planing and moulding and a well equipped log mill for conversion of English hardwood logs. All our timber is put through our own exacting regrading system on arrival, which involves board by board inspection.

Sykes Timber carefully select from a wide range of quality hardwoods to customers exact requirements which minimises wastage. We do not supply in packs. We are very experienced at dealing with Architects and Specifiers on choice of timber and economical specification. We have our own fleet of lorries and are able to arrange delivery nationwide.

In addition to our normal opening hours retail customers requiring hardwood, softwood, hardwood flooring or hardwood decking, can call in at our offices on Saturday mornings and receive expert impartial advice on timber selection and any machining requirements.
Our hardwood merchants business was established in 1862 and over one hundred and forty five years later the company remains an independent family business committed to supplying quality hardwood and softwood, with a reputation for our high standard of service.

Our web-site provides information for a wide variety of timber users, ranging from joiners, boat builders, shopfitters, architects and specifiers, engineering pattern makers, through to retail customers. Please take a look around the site and contact us for any further details you need or for a quotation for your hardwood, softwood, hardwood flooring or hardwood decking requirements.

Hardwood Stack


 http://www.sykestimber.co.uk/


Hardwood Log

How to Refinish a Hardwood Floor


Refinish a Hardwood Floor
Refinish a Hardwood Floor
How to Refinish a Hardwood Floor
Refinishing hardwood floors takes time, patience, and the proper tools and techniques, but the results can be extraordinary. If your wooden floor is starting to look a little worn perhaps all you need to do is refinish it for the floor to get a shinier look again. It's a messy project but well worth the investment.


Read more: How to Refinish a Hardwood Floor | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_1856_refinish-hardwood-floor.html#ixzz164ih4p00
 
 
 

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Wide brooms
  • Heavy and light sandpaper
  • Gloves
  • Rollers with long handle
  • Floor wax or polyurethane finish
  • Brushes
  • Dust masks
  • Wood stain
  • A dozen or so rags
  • Floor sanders and edger
  • Shop vacuums

    Sanding the Floor

  1. Remove all rugs and furniture from the room.
  2. Check the floor carefully for any nails (pound these down below the surface), carpet staples or tacks (pull these). Any of these could rip your sandpaper, ruining the sheet.
  3. Rent a floor sander from an equipment rental shop. Traditional drum sanders do a good job but are quite heavy and take some getting used to. (It's important to keep a drum sander moving all the time. They work fast and if left standing in one spot can quickly sand a groove in the floor that would be impossible to remove.)
  4. Consider a newer orbital sanders designed for floor refinishing that is easier to control. Whichever you choose, ask for a demonstration of how the sander works before you leave the rental shop.
  5. Get a good supply of sandpaper (in a range of grits--36, 60, 80, 100) that will fit your rental machine. Many rental outlets will take back sandpaper you don't use. Ask about it.
  6. Clip the heaviest-grit sandpaper (36 grit) into the sander.
  7. Run the sander over the floor in the direction of the wood grain. Push or pull the sander in straight, even strokes. Don't sand across the grain.
  8. Remember to keep the machine in motion while it's turned on. If you gouge the floor a little while sanding, go over it again with the sander using several long strokes to even it out.
  9. Remove the heavy-grit sandpaper when the whole floor is sanded, and clip a lighter-grain sandpaper (60 grit) into the sander. Sand scratches and lines in the floor as many times as necessary to remove them.
  10. Use a shop vac to pick up sanding dust when you change sand paper.
  11. Go over the floor again with the next lighter grain sandpaper. The key to getting beautiful smooth floors is to move up the grits sequentially from 36 to 60 to 80 to 100.
  12. Repeat steps 3 through 10 with an edging machine if your floor sander doesn't reach the edge of the floor. (These can also be found at your rental center.)
  13. Staining the Floor

  14. Decide if you want to stain the floor or if you would prefer to leave the floor natural in tone, in which case you can move on to applying a finish (see "Finishing the Floor").
  15. Brush the floor clear of all sawdust from the sander using a broom.

  16. Use a shop vacuum or a tack rag (see How to Make a Tack Rag), to pick up even finer dust. The cleaner the floor at this stage, the better your finish will look in the end.
  17. Open the windows to ventilate the area.
  18. Apply some stain with a rag to a corner of the floor or the back of a closet to check that the color is the one you want. Wait 5 minutes for the stain to dry. When you're satisfied with the color, you're ready to continue.
  19. Apply a first coat of stain to the rest of the floor. Use a brush if you want to apply heavier, darker coats (smooth out with a rag). If you want lighter, more controlled applications, use only rags to work in the stain. Apply with long, even strokes, going with the grain.
  20. Allow the first coat to dry. If necessary, apply a second coat, or touch up light spots.
  21. Make sure the floor is completely dry before you apply finish.
  22. Finishing the Floor

  23. Stir the container of polyurethane finish; shaking the mix will create air bubbles that show up in the final finish.
  24. Apply polyurethane with a brush or roller, using smooth, even strokes with the grain to avoid marks in the finish.
  25. Allow the finish to dry; this will take about 3 hours depending on the brand.
  26. Add a second coat. Allow the final coat to dry overnight at the least, and up to 3 days before moving furniture or rugs back on the floor.
Resins Floors, industrial and commercial resin flooring

The original DiscMaster, perfect sanding of doors and mouldings...

Italian luxury tiles with handmade gold leaf and precious materials.

Centrifugal & Drag Finishing Subcontracting & Machinery

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Tips & Warnings

  • Waxing the floor is another finishing option, though it's not as popular these days due to the amount of upkeep. Wax should be applied in light, even coats until the desired sheen and protection level is reached. Remember to never mix polyurethane and wax finishes--they're not compatible.
  • Sanding a floor creates lots of dust. Close doors, and turn off your furnace fan (to stop dust circulating throughout the house).
  • Wet bed sheets and hang them in open doorways to help minimize the spread of dust.
  • Using a smaller hand sander is a lot of work and very hard on your back.
  • Most finishes have harmful vapor, so make sure the work area is well-ventilated.
  • Don't smoke or have open flames in the area.
  • Always wear a dust mask and ensure adequate ventilation when working with sanding tools.
  • Most finishes have harmful vapor, so make sure the work area is well-ventilated.
  • Don't smoke or have open flames in the area.


Read more: How to Refinish a Hardwood Floor | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_1856_refinish-hardwood-floor.html#ixzz164j1AhPr
 
 
 
 
http://www.ehow.com/how_1856_refinish-hardwood-floor.html
 
 

Carved Corbel

Specifications
Size: 330.2 x 73 x 88.9 mm
Carved ornament
Carving corbel
Carved bracket

Company Introduction

TUNG-TAI, was found in1977 in Taiwan, has made every effort to design and manufacture a variety of components in Wooden Handles, Carvings, Molding Decorations, Queen Ann Legs, Posts, Frames, Hangings, Wheels, Racks, Kitchenware, Cutting Boards, Ornaments, Corbels, Dowels, Doors, Drawer Front and Furniture. In 1996, we successfully set-up another factory in China. So it’s just an office in Taiwan; the factory is mainly for production in China.
We used 16 woods, our material is import, like Rubber Wood from Malaysia, Pine from New Zealand, Beech & Birch form Europe, Aspen& White Oak & Red Oak & Maple & Cherry & Walnut form North American……etc and etc.

Our advantages are quality products, because we have many professional QC and precision instruments. Our elements are help to meet the highest criteria for quality, with reasonable price. Our endeavor has gained customer’s confidence and achieved prosperous business. Our experiences in this field for three decades will provide us sufficient technical expertise to offer service.


Top Quality For The Largerm Firms

Many chose us and all continue preferring us punctually reconfirming their trust in us, certain not only they have found a reliable partner but also one offering proposals, as concerns the ideas and operativeness.

Tung Tai produces and delivers the products according to largely experimented and consolidated service politics inevitably considering the customer’s production program, too. All these aspects enable us to collaborate with the best American and European firms and will make us certainly, do so also with those that still don’t know us, to carry out ambitious projects together, sharing ideas and experiences in a synergic relationship.


 What differentiates Us?

  • We only use top grades of North American Hardwood for our any carvings.
  • Each article is made from carefully selected solid wood components, color matched, and expertly sanded to provide the best finish possible.
  • TUNG TAI Ornaments& Corbels are hand carved, not stamped or embossed. Each piece is a genuine handmade treasure.
TUNG TAI products are popularity and diversification.

Company Web:http://www.tung-tai.com/













http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/321691366/Carved_Corbel.html




Renovo Hardwood Bicycles

Our Fall/Spring, New Model Introductory Sale is On!  



The Real Beauty of a Renovo is the Ride... the Looks Are a Bonus:

It's the smoothest bike you'll ever ride, stealth quiet, lightweight and responsive, stiff as you want. Renovo hollow wood and laminated bamboo frames will forever change your understanding of what a bicycle should be, and how brilliantly these natural materials perform when designed to their strengths.
Renovo Badash 29er MTB, hickory and padauk
 Time Trial / Triathlon bike raced at Ironman World Championships, 2010
Renovo R4 Pursuit






Renovo R3, purpleheart, sapele

Renovo R1, laminated bamboo, ash






 Pandurban Commuter, Laminated Bamboo

Why Wood?

We chose wood not because it's different, not because it's sustainable, but simply because we believe its engineering properties suit the requirements of most bicycle applications better than any other material. The performance of wood in applications far more structurally demanding than bicycles has been well proven over many years. The most successful fighter bomber of WWII was the all-wood 400 mph British Mosquito, of which some 7500 were built. The all-wood unlimited hydroplanes Slo Mo Shun, Miss Budweiser and their brethren pounded through the water at well over 150 mph for many years through the '70s, and the fastest unlimited hydroplane ever at 511 mph is all-wood. Finally, we mustn't forget the world's largest airplane, the all-wood H-4 Hercules, commonly known as the Spruce Goose. Yes, yes, I know it only flew for a mile or so, but it's an engineering marvel which is simply an amazing example of what can be done with wood, and you should see it if you can, it's stunning.
But over the years, wood in high performance applications has mostly been replaced by metals and plastics because wood is far more costly to work with. Designing is difficult because it's properties vary among species, and woodworking is demanding and difficult, so mass production is generally a non-starter. But where production is limited, and the properties of wood are matched to the product, it is difficult to surpass.
A Renovo bicycle frame offers:
  • Lightweight; a frame weighs from 3.5 to 5.5 pounds--bikes, 16.5 to 20 pounds.
  • The smoothest ride of any bicycle, thanks to wood's unique ability to absorb shock and vibration--you feel the difference immediately.
  • Stiffness? Oh yeah. As stiff as carbon or better if you wish, but most importantly, we tailor the stiffness and ride quality to your riding style and weight, so the bike is designed for you, not some theoretical average rider. 
  • Tough. Most woods used by Renovo are stiffer, stronger and harder than axe handles or baseball bats. The frames easily withstand impacts that ruin butted metal or carbon frames. 
  • The fatigue life of wood rivals carbon and is substantially longer than aluminum or steel.
  • Heirloom quality. The Renovo is tough, durable, and can be easily refinished in 100 years to look new again. Take a look at some really old frames here.
  • The Renovo frame is environmentally friendly, with sustainable woods, bamboo and low VOC finishes.
  • See our customer's comments here.
But, we don’t claim wood is the solution for everything, or even very much for that matter. As a lightweight structural material we know it’s also good for airplanes, boats, and a few other things. We're often asked to make wheels, handlebars, forks and more, but these each have practical or engineering drawbacks. So, while we may make something in addition to bicycle frames, it will be just as conservatively designed and engineered.

Renovo Frames are Made Completely In Our Shop In Portland, Oregon, Often With Oregon Woods


Renovo frames are a sublime blend of high-tech magic and fine craftsmanship. They're created on computer and machined by a computer controlled machine. But the majority of time in a frame is handwork; the real beauty is revealed only by caring craftsmanship wielded by computer-age people with a deep commitment to fine craft and fine bicycles.

Functional  Art Then...

On her 800 mile tour in Germany, Brigitte parks wherever...

Some folks view these frames as works of art, too nice or delicate for daily use, but they aren't your mom's dining room table. We chose wood for it's ride quality and sustainability, and got beauty as a bonus; but it's not a weakness. An impact that will dent and ruin a butted metal or carbon frame merely bounces off the Renovo frame leaving a small dent.
Wood is tough stuff; from axe handles and baseball bats to the walnut stocks of the 1903 Springfield rifles, the U.S. Infantry rifle from WW1 through the Korean conflict. These rifles were thrown from trucks, dragged through sand, rivers and hell, used as pry bars, clubs, crutches and still functioned as rifles. After the wars, civilians bought these battle-scarred relics and refinished many of them into gorgeous sporting rifles.

A Renovo Frame Will Outlast You and Still be Looking Good

Like the Springfield gunstock, or any bicycle frame, a Renovo can be dented and scratched. But, like those gunstocks, and unlike other frame materials, the Renovo is easily refinished, because it's wood all the way through, not just a paint layer. And the best news--a dent or scratch won't escalate into a frame-terminal crack as with other bike frame materials. So really, if you want a beautiful bicycle as your daily driver, the Renovo is your best bet, and yes, between rides many owners park their Renovos in their living rooms or offices as art they can enjoy between rides.

Unlike Any Other

The Renovo is custom made with select woods chosen by the owner, and, thanks to the color, grain and figure of wood, each frame is completely unique, even if made from the same wood as another Renovo. Compact geometry in six sizes ranging from 51cm to 61cm fit nearly anyone.
The woods, adhesives, and finishes are probably not what you're familiar with, so please visit 'What You Don't Know About Wood' for an overview.
Patents are pending on the Renovo hollow frame.






http://www.renovobikes.com/

Tree Identification - The Hardwoods

dentify Your Common North American Hardwoods
Hardwoods or broadleaves are classed as angiosperms or plants with ovules enclosed for protection in an ovary. When fertilized, these ovules develop into seeds.
Broadleaves can be evergreen but most lose their leaves annually. These leaves can be either simple (single blades) or they can be compound with leaflets attached to a leaf stem. Although variable in shape all hardwood leaves have a distinct network of fine veins.



If you are confused with some of the terms used here, please use my definitions of terms used for tree identification.
Several Common Terms for this Major Tree Category

  • HARDWOOD - Trees with broad, flat leaves as opposed to coniferous or needled trees. Wood hardness varies among the hardwood species, and some are actually softer than some softwoods.
  • DECIDUOUS - perennial plants which are normally leafless for some time during the year.
  • BROADLEAF - A tree with leaves that are broad, flat and thin and generally shed annually.
The Most Common Hardwoods
Identify single tree species known variously as hardwoods, deciduous, or broadleaf









http://forestry.about.com/cs/treeid/a/hard_tree_id.htm

Nic Webb

Each of these spoons has been hand carved, using traditional tools and techniques. The timber is worked green, (fresh living wood) and is collected on walks around the British Isles or overseas.
“When I begin carving I look for the differing qualities in each piece, allowing the grain and character to influence the design. Each spoon evolves to have its own personality and when finished becomes a showcase for the limitless beauty of wood.”












http://www.nicwebb.com/


     














                                 

Carved Timber (Wooden) Staircase

This stair is an absolute piece of art in this interior with the carved balusters, handrail and newels complemented by the same detailing to the dados and walls.
This is a highly intricate and detailed design all with the same timber (wooden) finish. The ledges and carved features make use of light and shadow to great effect which is needed as there are no contrasting colors to effect detail.
The balusters and handrail appear to have been carved from a single piece of timber (wood) however it’s the craftsman’s skill that has allowed this incredible work to be seamlessly constructed.

intricate carved timber stair
Intricate carved timber stair
It is not the type of stair you see being designed regularly today as it's detail is a very expensive process and would only suit certain applications.
It is more likely as a designer that you would get a project to repair or refurbish this work of highly skilled craftmanship. That is when you need to do your homework and make sure that you prepare the timber correctly so that you don't damage the detailed carving, sanding could loose intricacy. There are numerous chemical solutions that can be used to strip timber, it would be best to get an expert to look and verify which product is best to use. For repairing damaged timber, a cabinet maker would be your best option for this as they are skilled with managing timber. 




http://stairs.interiordezine.com/staircase_design_examples/carved_timber_staircase.html


Wood flooring

Wood flooring is any product manufactured from timber that is designed for use as flooring, either structural or aesthetic. Bamboo flooring is often considered a wood floor, although it is made from a grass (bamboo) rather than a timber.
Wood is a substance which is "perfect for flooring because it is elastic and flexible", according to A Splintered History of Wood by Spike Garlsen.










Types

Solid

Solid hardwood floors come in a wide range of dimensions and styles, with each plank made of solid wood and milled from a single piece of timber. Solid hardwood floors were originally used for structural purposes, being installed perpendicular to the wooden support beams of a building. Modern construction techniques now rarely use wood building frames and solid hardwood floors are used almost exclusively for their appearance.
For flooring, solid wood has many limitations due to the natural characteristics of wood. Expansion and contraction of wood from moisture and temperature fluctuation puts many dimensional restrictions on solid wood floors. Typically, 5" wide and 3/4" thick boards are the largest that can be manufactured from solid wood without compromising the structure of the flooring (some manufacturers produce wider boards using proprietary milling techniques). There is, however, no standard size which will perform well in every environment. For contemporary construction techniques, the most significant characteristic of solid wood floors is that they are not recommended to be installed directly over concrete.

Engineered

Wood flooring is a popular feature in many houses.
 
Engineered wood flooring is composed of two or more layers of wood in the form of a plank. The top layer (lamella) is the wood that is visible when the flooring is installed, and is adhered to the core (or substrate) which provides the stability.
Laminate, vinyl and veneer floors are often confused with engineered wood floors - laminate uses an image of wood on its surface, vinyl is plastic formed to look like wood, and veneer uses a thin layer of wood with a core that could be one of a number of different composite wood products (most commonly, high density fibreboard).
Engineered wood is the most common type of wood flooring used globally. North America is the only continent that has a larger solid wood market than engineered, although engineered wood is quickly catching up in market share.
A subcategory of engineered wood flooring is acrylic impregnated wood flooring. This product utilizes a real wood veneer that is impregnated with liquid acrylic and then hardened using a special process. Non impregnated Northern Red Oak typically tests at 1,290 on the Janka hardness scale and acrylic impregnated Northern Red Oak typically tests at 2,286 and 4,786 on the Janka hardness scale (ASTM D-143)[1]. Acrylic impregnated engineered wood flooring is normally used in high traffic interior spaces that require a high level of dent and wear resistance.
  1.  Nydree Flooring Modified Rockwell Hardness and Janka Test Data Sheet

Comparison of solid wood and engineered wood

It is very difficult to compare a solid wood floor to engineered wood floors, as there is a wide range of engineered wood floor qualities. There are several limitations on solid hardwood that give it a more limited scope of use: solid wood should not be installed directly over concrete, should not be installed below grade (basements) and it should not be used with radiant floor heating. Solid hardwood is also typically limited in plank width and is more prone to "gapping" (excessive space between planks) and "cupping" (a concave or "dished" appearance of the plank, with the height of the plank along its longer edges being higher than the centre) with increased plank size. Solid wood products, on average, have a slightly thicker 'sandable area' (the wood that is above the tongue), and can be installed using nails. Lastly, solid wood tends to be less expensive than engineered wood, but this, as with the 'sandable area,' depends on the quality of the engineered wood (most inexpensive engineered wood products are 'veneer' wood floors, and not 'engineered'). In many installations, however, engineered flooring can only withstand a limited number of sandings, versus solid wood, which can be sanded many times.
The installation costs of engineered flooring are typically lower than solid flooring.
Engineered wood flooring has several benefits over solid wood, beyond dimensional stability and universal use. Patented installation systems (such as "unilin" or "fiboloc") allow for faster installation and easy replacement of boards. Engineered wood also allows a 'floating' installation (where the planks are not fastened to the floor below or to each other), further increasing ease of repair and reducing installation time.
In general engineered wood panels are longer and wider than solid planks.
The top surface of solid and engineered flooring, have the same properties of hardness and durability.
The development of "structural" engineered flooring now means engineered floors (often with 1/4 inch lamellas and birch ply backing)can be nailed directly over joists without the need for plywood sub-flooring.

Solid wood manufacturing

Solid wood can be cut in three styles: flat-sawn, quarter-sawn, and rift-sawn. However, because only one side of the wood is visible on flooring, "quarter-sawn" and "rift-sawn" will have the same appearance.
Many solid woods come with "absorption strips" - grooves cut into the back of the wood that run the length of each plank. They are used to reduce cupping.
Solid wood floors are mostly manufactured with a tongue-and-groove for installation.

Engineered wood manufacturing

Lamella

The lamella is the face layer of the wood that is visible when installed. Typically it is a sawn piece of timber.
The timber can be cut in three different styles: flat-sawn, quarter-sawn, and rift-sawn. However, because only one side of the wood is visible on flooring, "quarter-sawn" and "rift-sawn" will have the same appearance.

Core/substrate

1) Wood ply construction ("sandwich core"): Uses multiple thin plies of wood adhered together. The wood grain of each ply runs perpendicular to the ply below it. Stability is attained from using thin layers of wood that have little to no reaction to climatic change. The wood is further stabilized due to equal pressure being exerted lengthwise and widthwise from the plies running perpendicular to each other.
2) Finger core construction: Finger core engineered wood floors are made of small pieces of milled timber that run perpendicular to the top layer (lamella) of wood. They can be 2-ply or 3-ply, depending on their intended use. If it is three ply, the third ply is often plywood that runs parallel to the lamella. Stability is gained through the grains running perpendicular to each other, and the expansion and contraction of wood is reduced and relegated to the middle ply, stopping the floor from gapping or cupping.
3) Fibreboard: The core is made up of medium or high density fibreboard. Floors with a fibreboard core are hygroscpoic and must never be exposed to large amounts of water or very high humidity - the expansion caused from absorbing water combined with the density of the fibreboard, will cause it to lose its form. Fibreboard is less expensive than timber but is not VOC free and is not environmentally friendly.
4)An engineered flooring construction which is populsar in parts of Europe is the hardwood lamella, softwood core laid perpendicular to the lamella, and a final backing layer of the same noble wood used for the lamella. Other noble hardwoods are sometimes used for the back layer but must be compatible. This is thought by many to be the most stable of engineered floors.

Installation systems

Wood can be manufactured with a variety of different installation systems:
1) Tongue-and-groove: One side and one end of the plank have a groove, the other side and end have a tongue (protruding wood along an edge's center). The tongue and groove fit snugly together, thus joining or aligning the planks, and are not visible once joined. Tongue-and-groove flooring can be installed by glue-down (both engineered and solid), floating (mostly engineered only), or nail-down (not recommended for most engineered).
2) "Click" systems: there are a number of patented "click" systems that now exist. These click systems are either "unilin" or "fiboloc" A "click" floor is similar to tongue-and-groove, but instead of fitting directly into the groove, the board must be angled or "tapped" in to make the curved or barbed tongue fit into the modified groove. No adhesive is used when installing a "click" floor, making board replacement easier. This system not only exists for engineered wood floors but also bamboo and a small number of solid floors (such as "parador solido click") and is designed to be used for floating installations. It is beneficial for the Do-It-Yourself market.
3) Floor connection system: There are a wide range of connection systems, as most of them are mill-specific manufacturing techniques. The general principle is to have grooves on all four sides of the plank with a separate, unconnected, piece that is inserted into the grooves of two planks to join them. The piece used for the connection can be made from wood, rubber, or plastic. This installation system allows for different materials (i.e. wood and metal) to be installed together if they have the same connection system.
4) Wood flooring can also be installed utilizing the glue-down method. This is an especially popular method for solid parquet flooring installations on concrete sub-floors. Additionally, engineered wood flooring may use the glue-down method as well. A layer of mastic is placed onto the sub-floor using a trowel similar to those used in laying ceramic tile. The wood pieces are then laid on top of the glue and hammered into place using a rubber mallet and a protected 2x4 to create a level floor. Often the parquet floor will require sanding and re-finishing after the glue-down installation method due to the small size pieces.

Other wood manufacturing styles

 Rotary-peel

This process involves treating the wood by boiling the log in water at a certain temperature for a certain amount of time. After preparation, the wood is peeled by a blade starting from the outside of the log and working toward the center, thus creating a wood veneer. The veneer is then pressed flat with high pressure. This style of manufacturing tends to have problems with the wood cupping or curling back to its original shape. This problem is commonly known as "face checking" and is a manufacturing defect. Rotary-peeled engineered hardwoods tend to have a plywood appearance in the grain.

Sliced-peel

This process begins with the same treatment process that the rotary peel method uses. However, instead of being sliced in a rotary fashion, with this technique the wood is sliced from the end of a log, resulting in disc shaped veneers. The veneers then go through the same manufacturing process as rotary peeled veneers. Engineered hardwood produced this way tends to have fewer problems with "face checking", and also does not have the same plywood appearance in the grain. However, the planks can tend to have edge splintering and cracking due to the fact the veneers have been submersed in water and then pressed flat.

Dry solid-sawn

Instead of boiling the hardwood logs, in this process they are kept at a low humidity level and dried slowly to draw moisture from the inside of the wood cells. The logs are then sawed in the same manner as for solid hardwood planks. This style of engineered hardwood has the same look as solid hardwood, and does not have any of the potential problems of "face checking" that rotary-peel and slice-peel products have, because the product is not exposed to added moisture.

Finishing, refinishing, and sanding

Floor finishes

The two most popular finishes for wood flooring are oil and polyurethane. Within both categories there are many variations and other names used to describe the finish. Oil and polyurethane also have very different refinishing and maintenance regimes.
1) Oil - Oiled floors have existed for several thousand years and is the most common floor finish used globally. Oil finished floors are made from naturally derived drying oils, and are not to be confused with petroleum based oils. Pre-finished oil floors can be UV cured. Most vegetable based oils are 100% natural and contain no VOCs.
1.1) Brushed and Oiled - Steel brushes are used in the direction of the grain which opens up the surface of the wood and removes splinters. The wood is then oiled.
2) Polyurethane - Polyurethane floors were first introduced around 1940. There are several types of polyurethane finishes that exist, but the two most common are straight polyurethane and oil-modified polyurethane. Both products are sold under various names including: urethane, lacquer, and varnish. Many finish manufacturers and wood flooring manufacturers create a brand name for their finish.

Sanding

Sanding provides a method for smoothing an installed floor, compensating for unevenness of the subfloor. Additionally, sanding is used to renew the appearance of older floors. Sanding using successively finer grades of sandpaper is required to ensure even stain penetration when stains are used, as well as to eliminate visible scratches from coarser sandpaper grades used initially. Prior to modern polyurethanes, oils and waxes were used in addition to stains to provide finishes. Beeswax and linseed oil, for example, are both natural crosslinking polymers are hardened over time.

Care of wood floors

Proper use of vacuuming, sweeping, and damp mopping is usually all that is required to maintain the cleanliness and appearance of a wood floor. Oil soaps should not be used to clean the floors. The best suggestion is to use the manufacturers recommended cleaning products. Like tile floors, excessive grit and foot traffic will affect appearance. Unlike carpet or rugs, a properly finished wood floor, like tile, does not accumulate hidden soil or odorous compounds.

 See also







http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_flooring

Hardwood

Beech is a popular temperate zone hardwood
 
Hardwood is wood from angiosperm trees (more strictly speaking non-monocot angiosperm trees). It may also be used for those trees themselves: these are usually broad-leaved; in temperate and boreal latitudes they are mostly deciduous, but in tropics and subtropics mostly evergreen.
Hardwood contrasts with softwood (which comes from conifer trees). Hardwoods are not necessarily harder than softwoods. In both groups there is an enormous variation in actual wood hardness, with the range in density in hardwoods completely including that of softwoods; some hardwoods (e.g. balsa) are softer than most softwoods, while yew is an example of a hard softwood. The hardest hardwoods are much harder than any softwood. There are about a hundred times as many hardwoods as softwoods.

Contents

Structure

SEM images showing the presence of pores in hardwoods (Oak, top) and absence in softwoods (Pine, bottom)
Hardwoods have a more complex structure than softwoods. The dominant feature separating "hardwoods" from softwoods is the presence of pores, or vessels. The vessels may show considerable variation in size, shape of perforation plates (simple, scalariform, reticulate, foraminate), and structure of cell wall (e.g. spiral thickenings).

 Applications

Hardwoods are employed in a large range of applications including: construction, furniture, flooring, cooking, utensils, etc. Solid hardwood joinery tends to be expensive compared to softwood. In the past, tropical hardwoods were easily available but the supply of some species such as Burma teak and mahogany is now becoming restricted due to over-exploitation. Cheaper "hardwood" doors, for instance, now consist of a thin veneer bonded to a core of softwood, plywood or medium-density fibreboard (MDF). Hardwoods can also be used in a variety of objects but mainly for furniture or musical instruments because of their density. Different species of hardwood lend themselves to different end uses or construction processes. This is due to the variety of characteristics apparent in different timbers including, density, grain, pore size, growth pattern, wood fibre pattern, flexibility and ability to be steam bent. For example, the interlocked grain of elm wood (Ulmus spp.) makes it suitable for the making of chair seats where the driving in of legs and other components can cause splitting in other woods.

Cooking

There is a correlation between density and calories/volume. This makes the denser hardwoods such as oak, cherry, and apple more suited for camp fires, cooking fires, and smoking meat as they tend to burn hotter and longer than softwoods such as pine or cedar.

Characteristics

As their name suggests, the wood from these trees is generally harder than softwoods. Hardwoods reproduce by flowers, and have broad leaves. Many lose their leaves every autumn and are dormant in the winter.

See also

References

  1. ^ CRC Handbook of Materials Science, Vol IV, pg 15
  2. ^ http://www.ruthtrumpold.id.au/designtech/pmwiki.php?n=Main.TimberNew

Further reading

  • Schweingruber, F.H. (1990) Anatomie europäischer Hölzer—Anatomy of European woods. Eidgenössische Forschungsanstalt für Wald, Schnee und Landscaft, Birmensdorf (Hrsg,). Haupt, Bern und Stuttgart.
  • Timonen, Tuuli (2002). Introduction to Microscopic Wood Identification. Finnish Museum of Natural History, University of Helsinki.
  • Wilson, K., and D.J.B. White (1986). The Anatomy of Wood: Its Diversity and variability. Stobart & Son Ltd, London.




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardwood